CRETE - Walking IN The Land Of The Minotaur
The Minotaur, a fearsome mythical creature of immense strength and power that was half man and half bull. It would stalk the labyrinth of King Minos of Crete hunting for the latest sacrificial offerings of the young people of Athens. Their screams would fill the air as they came face to face with the beast only to be abruptly cut off as their vain struggles were mercilessly quashed. Luckily for the travellers of today the only struggles they may have are ‘What shall we do today?’ and the ongoing fight against the ravages of sunburn.
Crete is only a four hour flight from most airports of the UK during the summer when the direct charter flights are in place. In winter time it involves an extra stop at Athens before your ongoing connection to one of the two main airports on the island. As the door to the aircraft opens the smell of rosemary, sage and basil fill the cabin. These herbs that grow wild all across the island offer you your first taste of Crete before you even set foot onto the ground. Whether you have landed at Iraklion or Chania airport the sensory overload is the same. First the herby aroma then your first real glimpse of the mountain ranges you have just flown over as you reach the doorway. A superb collection of jagged peaks set against a sky so blue you feel it is painted on. Your feet will be itching to walk amongst them.
The island of Crete which is the fifth largest and most southerly island in the Mediterranean is a place full of myth and legends. It is hailed as the birthplace of Zeus and as already mentioned the home of the fearsome Minotaur. It is also from Crete that Icarus was to fly too close to the sun in his fathers’ homemade wings to come crashing down to his doom. The main attraction for many visitors to the island are some of the best beaches in Europe but Crete offers so much more than a beach holiday. For those of you wanting to complete some wonderful walks amongst dramatic gorges and spectacular mountain scenery Crete is the place for you.
The island is split in two from East to West by three interlinked mountain ranges. In the West are the White Mountains or the Lefka Ori and it is here you will find the highest point on Crete of 2456m. Not a huge undertaking if you are used to the French or Swiss alps but the difference in Crete is that you will be starting off at sea level and earning every meter of height gain. Towards the Eastern end of the island lie the Dikti mountains with its huge flat Lassithi plateau of over 400 sq km spread out amidst the peaks. The ancient windmills still turn to irrigate this important piece of arable land. The tattered sails creak and groan as they have done for centuries taking you back to the time of Jason and his Argonauts who fought the mighty bronze statue of Talos that defended Crete from invaders. It is said that Talos levelled the Lassithi plain scattering the mountains into the ocean so he could have somewhere to rest.
The central mountainous section of Crete holds the Psiloritis Range with the dominant peak of Mount Ida and the cave where it is told in legend that Zeus was born and hidden by his mother to avoid him being eaten by his enraged father, Kronos.
Just outside Iraklion, the capital city of Crete, sits the palace of Knossos where King Minos ruled. The palace was partially restored by Sir Arthur Evans in the early 20th century to give you a glimpse into its former decadence. This palace is also infamous as the home of the labyrinth where the Minotaur was kept hidden away and fed upon human sacrifice. As you walk among the ruins and look down into the depths of the underground passageways you can almost hear the heavy footsteps and bellowing of the fearsome creature as it searches out the next victim. There are still fearsome creatures waiting for you at Knossos but they are more intent on taking your Euros away for an unofficial guided tour than eating your flesh. Stick to the official guides for a more in depth understanding of this important place in Crete’s history. Walking around Knossos is an ideal way to acclimatise yourself before anything more strenuous. It will loosen up your stiff legs after your travelling and give you a chance to see just how hot it can get in this part of the world.
If you fancy a bit more of workout then what better way than walking the longest gorge in Europe. The Samaria Gorge is part of a protected national park in the White Mountains. At 16km long it is not for the faint hearted but a day spent hiking the route will leave you weary and with a huge sense of achievement. It is best to organise a day excursion with a tour company for this trip as it is a one way walk from the Omalos Plateau at 1230m to Agia Roumelli at sea level. This is because the only way out is either back through the gorge the way you came or by sea on a small ferry. The ferry takes you on a short ride to the next village and this is where your bus will be waiting to take you back to your hotel for a well earned rest.
The walk begins on the Xyloskalo which literally translates as the wooden stairs, down a zig zag route to the gorge floor. The mountains look down on you as you carefully pick your way over the dry stream bed that in winter is filled with flood water from the snow capped peaks above. During the Second World War locals and Allied soldiers sheltered within the gorge as the steep walls offered protection from aerial bombardment and detection by aircraft. It became a stronghold against the Germans as it creates many natural ambush points so that when the invasion force did try to clear it out they were easily and very forcefully repelled. The village of Samaria sits around the halfway point of the gorge, now abandoned, it is remarkably well preserved and you can spend some time walking amongst the houses where you can refill your water bottles from fresh spring water and have a lunch stop. As you reach the end of the gorge you walk through an area covered in small cairns of pebbles. An eerie sight as there are many hundreds if not thousands of them that have been built up like small gravestones over a kilometre stretch. Passing through this field of stones brings you to the famous “Iron Gates”. This is the gorges narrowest point and you can stand in the middle of the path and almost reach both sides with outstretched arms whilst looking up and seeing 350 metres of solid rock above you. The small village of Agia Roumelli is the final stop of the journey and luckily it has a gently sloping sandy beach where you can dip your toes in the clear blue sea of the Mediterranean. Agia Roumelli has no paved roads leading to it and so no motor vehicles. It is served by a few small ferry boats that as you sit on the deck with your tired feet splayed out in front of you, you can sip on a cold drink and feel the glow of the setting sun warming your back as you watch the landscape drift slowly by. The relaxing trip on the boat gives you a chance to observe the enchanting coastline as you sail around to the small fishing village of Hora Sfakion for your homeward journey overland by bus.
Wherever your walking adventures take you on Crete you will never be too far away from the sound of bells. If it is not the bells from the hundreds of churches that litter the countryside and hilltops as if randomly thrown there by a mighty being, then it is the tuneful sounds of the Cretan goat and the many clanking tones from their different sized bells. These goats bells are all hand made and a shepherd can tell his own flock amongst others by the unique sound of his bells from a fair distance away. They are not cheap to make or buy and the bells are handed down from generation to generation of Cretan shepherds or more precisely their goats. Many of the tracks throughout Crete you can follow are formerly old shepherd trails from one village to the next and the longest path on the island is made up of many such tracks to make up part of the awe inspiring E4 long distance path. At just over 300 miles from start to finish it is certainly not an undertaking to attempt on a whim. The Cretan part of the E4 path will take you on a traverse of the island including the highest peaks of the mountain ranges. To attempt the complete E4 means you starting in France and travelling through most of Europe before finishing in Crete. Definitely not just a weekend walk that one! Of the many villages you pass through on the E4 not all can offer accommodation to the walker. A lightweight flysheet and sleeping bag will come in useful at some stages of the trail as you may have to camp out under the stars. This is not an unpleasant way to spend a night out as you will see the night sky as never before. It is so easy to see the constellations of the ancient Greeks and you can get carried away just watching for satellites and shooting stars that the dawn can be upon you before you realise you have been up all night.
Unfortunately there is not a definitive map to be able to guide you along the Cretan section of the trail but you can contact the Crete Climbing Club based in Iraklion and Chania for help and information on the route. The club can also provide mountain guides to help navigate through the less well marked parts of the trail. Considering that at best the path is marked by a faded wooden post that a local has used for target practice or a small cairn with a dab of paint, then it is perhaps a very good idea to hire a guide for the few Euros a day it will cost you.
As well as the walks amongst ancient ruins, high peaks, cool gorges and shaded olive groves there are also some relaxing days out in the major cities of Crete. From the modern hustle and bustle of city life in Iraklion to the ancient Venetian and Turkish charm of the cities of Chania and Rethymno. These places all offer you some fascinating walks and tours that will get you reaching for your camera again and again. A day spent strolling through the back streets and savouring a Greek coffee in one of the shaded café courtyards is one of my favourite pastimes. The narrow streets are all full of the scent of jasmine, bougainvilleas and cooking. Kafenions and their busy tables of Greek men discussing anything from politics to the Eurovision song contest, in fact, mention how you liked their last song and you will be welcomed with open arms! Join with the locals in an evening walk along the promenade before a hearty meze meal washed down with some local wine and ending with a throat burning tsikoudia.
The more you explore and discover about the island of Crete then the greater the desire to return for more.
For some great places to stay, why not check out what's on offer from these guys -
https://www.theluxenomad.com/greece/villas
Crete is only a four hour flight from most airports of the UK during the summer when the direct charter flights are in place. In winter time it involves an extra stop at Athens before your ongoing connection to one of the two main airports on the island. As the door to the aircraft opens the smell of rosemary, sage and basil fill the cabin. These herbs that grow wild all across the island offer you your first taste of Crete before you even set foot onto the ground. Whether you have landed at Iraklion or Chania airport the sensory overload is the same. First the herby aroma then your first real glimpse of the mountain ranges you have just flown over as you reach the doorway. A superb collection of jagged peaks set against a sky so blue you feel it is painted on. Your feet will be itching to walk amongst them.
The island of Crete which is the fifth largest and most southerly island in the Mediterranean is a place full of myth and legends. It is hailed as the birthplace of Zeus and as already mentioned the home of the fearsome Minotaur. It is also from Crete that Icarus was to fly too close to the sun in his fathers’ homemade wings to come crashing down to his doom. The main attraction for many visitors to the island are some of the best beaches in Europe but Crete offers so much more than a beach holiday. For those of you wanting to complete some wonderful walks amongst dramatic gorges and spectacular mountain scenery Crete is the place for you.
The island is split in two from East to West by three interlinked mountain ranges. In the West are the White Mountains or the Lefka Ori and it is here you will find the highest point on Crete of 2456m. Not a huge undertaking if you are used to the French or Swiss alps but the difference in Crete is that you will be starting off at sea level and earning every meter of height gain. Towards the Eastern end of the island lie the Dikti mountains with its huge flat Lassithi plateau of over 400 sq km spread out amidst the peaks. The ancient windmills still turn to irrigate this important piece of arable land. The tattered sails creak and groan as they have done for centuries taking you back to the time of Jason and his Argonauts who fought the mighty bronze statue of Talos that defended Crete from invaders. It is said that Talos levelled the Lassithi plain scattering the mountains into the ocean so he could have somewhere to rest.
The central mountainous section of Crete holds the Psiloritis Range with the dominant peak of Mount Ida and the cave where it is told in legend that Zeus was born and hidden by his mother to avoid him being eaten by his enraged father, Kronos.
Just outside Iraklion, the capital city of Crete, sits the palace of Knossos where King Minos ruled. The palace was partially restored by Sir Arthur Evans in the early 20th century to give you a glimpse into its former decadence. This palace is also infamous as the home of the labyrinth where the Minotaur was kept hidden away and fed upon human sacrifice. As you walk among the ruins and look down into the depths of the underground passageways you can almost hear the heavy footsteps and bellowing of the fearsome creature as it searches out the next victim. There are still fearsome creatures waiting for you at Knossos but they are more intent on taking your Euros away for an unofficial guided tour than eating your flesh. Stick to the official guides for a more in depth understanding of this important place in Crete’s history. Walking around Knossos is an ideal way to acclimatise yourself before anything more strenuous. It will loosen up your stiff legs after your travelling and give you a chance to see just how hot it can get in this part of the world.
If you fancy a bit more of workout then what better way than walking the longest gorge in Europe. The Samaria Gorge is part of a protected national park in the White Mountains. At 16km long it is not for the faint hearted but a day spent hiking the route will leave you weary and with a huge sense of achievement. It is best to organise a day excursion with a tour company for this trip as it is a one way walk from the Omalos Plateau at 1230m to Agia Roumelli at sea level. This is because the only way out is either back through the gorge the way you came or by sea on a small ferry. The ferry takes you on a short ride to the next village and this is where your bus will be waiting to take you back to your hotel for a well earned rest.
The walk begins on the Xyloskalo which literally translates as the wooden stairs, down a zig zag route to the gorge floor. The mountains look down on you as you carefully pick your way over the dry stream bed that in winter is filled with flood water from the snow capped peaks above. During the Second World War locals and Allied soldiers sheltered within the gorge as the steep walls offered protection from aerial bombardment and detection by aircraft. It became a stronghold against the Germans as it creates many natural ambush points so that when the invasion force did try to clear it out they were easily and very forcefully repelled. The village of Samaria sits around the halfway point of the gorge, now abandoned, it is remarkably well preserved and you can spend some time walking amongst the houses where you can refill your water bottles from fresh spring water and have a lunch stop. As you reach the end of the gorge you walk through an area covered in small cairns of pebbles. An eerie sight as there are many hundreds if not thousands of them that have been built up like small gravestones over a kilometre stretch. Passing through this field of stones brings you to the famous “Iron Gates”. This is the gorges narrowest point and you can stand in the middle of the path and almost reach both sides with outstretched arms whilst looking up and seeing 350 metres of solid rock above you. The small village of Agia Roumelli is the final stop of the journey and luckily it has a gently sloping sandy beach where you can dip your toes in the clear blue sea of the Mediterranean. Agia Roumelli has no paved roads leading to it and so no motor vehicles. It is served by a few small ferry boats that as you sit on the deck with your tired feet splayed out in front of you, you can sip on a cold drink and feel the glow of the setting sun warming your back as you watch the landscape drift slowly by. The relaxing trip on the boat gives you a chance to observe the enchanting coastline as you sail around to the small fishing village of Hora Sfakion for your homeward journey overland by bus.
Wherever your walking adventures take you on Crete you will never be too far away from the sound of bells. If it is not the bells from the hundreds of churches that litter the countryside and hilltops as if randomly thrown there by a mighty being, then it is the tuneful sounds of the Cretan goat and the many clanking tones from their different sized bells. These goats bells are all hand made and a shepherd can tell his own flock amongst others by the unique sound of his bells from a fair distance away. They are not cheap to make or buy and the bells are handed down from generation to generation of Cretan shepherds or more precisely their goats. Many of the tracks throughout Crete you can follow are formerly old shepherd trails from one village to the next and the longest path on the island is made up of many such tracks to make up part of the awe inspiring E4 long distance path. At just over 300 miles from start to finish it is certainly not an undertaking to attempt on a whim. The Cretan part of the E4 path will take you on a traverse of the island including the highest peaks of the mountain ranges. To attempt the complete E4 means you starting in France and travelling through most of Europe before finishing in Crete. Definitely not just a weekend walk that one! Of the many villages you pass through on the E4 not all can offer accommodation to the walker. A lightweight flysheet and sleeping bag will come in useful at some stages of the trail as you may have to camp out under the stars. This is not an unpleasant way to spend a night out as you will see the night sky as never before. It is so easy to see the constellations of the ancient Greeks and you can get carried away just watching for satellites and shooting stars that the dawn can be upon you before you realise you have been up all night.
Unfortunately there is not a definitive map to be able to guide you along the Cretan section of the trail but you can contact the Crete Climbing Club based in Iraklion and Chania for help and information on the route. The club can also provide mountain guides to help navigate through the less well marked parts of the trail. Considering that at best the path is marked by a faded wooden post that a local has used for target practice or a small cairn with a dab of paint, then it is perhaps a very good idea to hire a guide for the few Euros a day it will cost you.
As well as the walks amongst ancient ruins, high peaks, cool gorges and shaded olive groves there are also some relaxing days out in the major cities of Crete. From the modern hustle and bustle of city life in Iraklion to the ancient Venetian and Turkish charm of the cities of Chania and Rethymno. These places all offer you some fascinating walks and tours that will get you reaching for your camera again and again. A day spent strolling through the back streets and savouring a Greek coffee in one of the shaded café courtyards is one of my favourite pastimes. The narrow streets are all full of the scent of jasmine, bougainvilleas and cooking. Kafenions and their busy tables of Greek men discussing anything from politics to the Eurovision song contest, in fact, mention how you liked their last song and you will be welcomed with open arms! Join with the locals in an evening walk along the promenade before a hearty meze meal washed down with some local wine and ending with a throat burning tsikoudia.
The more you explore and discover about the island of Crete then the greater the desire to return for more.
For some great places to stay, why not check out what's on offer from these guys -
https://www.theluxenomad.com/greece/villas